{"id":16063,"date":"2021-04-05T16:11:08","date_gmt":"2021-04-05T13:11:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.eefshp.org\/?p=16063"},"modified":"2021-04-05T16:11:08","modified_gmt":"2021-04-05T13:11:08","slug":"philhellenism-past-and-present","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eefshp.org\/en\/philhellenism-past-and-present\/","title":{"rendered":"Philhellenism, past and present"},"content":{"rendered":"

 <\/p>\n

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The Memorial to the English Sailors<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

John Kittmer, former British Ambassador to Greece
\n24 March 2021<\/p>\n

The small boat, with its group of twenty or so British tourists and schoolkids, was leaning into the wind across choppy waters. Gerald, our teacher and guide, was telling us two stories at once and they were becoming occasionally confused. As we left the jetty of the pretty town, the geography opened up in all directions. Behind the town, itself set out on the edge of the bay, a conical mountain was rising. The island to which we were heading now seemed much larger; its sides precipitous and covered in forest. \u2018The surrender of the Spartan garrison on Sphacteria was the first time that Spartans had ever capitulated,\u2019 Gerald shouted, above the noise of the engine. \u2018It was an exciting moment for the Athenians: a moment that carried them into uncharted waters – waters that were unfortunately stalked by Hubris and Nemesis\u2026\u2019<\/p>\n

The waters through which we were being c\u03bfnveyed seemed themselves to be increasingly stalked, by danger. We were apparently now heading out into the open sea through the southern channel between Sphacteria island and the mainland, and the waves were getting bigger. \u2018We will soon see the monument to the French sailors who died at Navarino,\u2019 said Gerald, optimistically. The boat bounced on the turbulent waves, as we approached the stairs cut into the cliff of the islet of Tsichli-Baba. \u2018It\u2019s too choppy to land today – according to the captain, but we\u2019ll sail round the islet and then return to find the English monument.\u2019<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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The Battle of Navarino<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

It was the middle of April in 1984. I was sixteen. We were in the first week of a three-week tour of Greece and were travelling around the Peloponnese. It was Orthodox Lent and we were due to spend Holy Week on Aegina and Easter week on Sifnos. I had never been to Greece before, but had been learning the ancient language for three years. Earlier in the day, we had excitedly toured the Mycenean remains of Nestor\u2019s Palace at Ano Engliano. Now we were learning about events in the Peloponnesian War in 425BC (the capture of Sphacteria by the Athenians) and the Battle of Navarino on 20 October 1827AD. As we re-entered the bay, Gerald told us about the disposition of the Ottoman fleet (arranged in a horseshoe) and the tactics and skill of the allied sailors, as Codrington, provoked by Ibrahim\u2019s fleet, launched a devastating and decisive counterattack. From the English memorial on Chelonaki islet, we could see, at the northern end of the bay, the flat lands of the lagoon and the thirteenth-century Frankish castle at Old Navarino. In this small corner of Greece, every age of European history seemed to have left its mark. Homeric mythology, ancient and mediaeval history, legendary figures from the age of European empire and Greek revolution, the ghosts and footfalls of the past – all crowded into this compact environment, this landscape of astonishing natural beauty.<\/p>\n

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Yialova Lagoon, Navarino<\/p><\/div>\n

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First impressions matter. My first impressions of Greece changed the course of my life. I am not alone in that. Rather more importantly for the course of Greek history, Byron too fell in love on his first trip to Greece in 1809. He fell in love multiply. Famously, of course, with Teresa Makri, the \u2018Maid of Athens\u2019, but even more lastingly with Greece itself, its landscapes, its mythical past, its people and their customs – and above all, he fell in love with the idea of Greece: a Greece of radical liberty, freed from Ottoman shackles. He was entranced by Greece (I have placed below a favourite stanza from\u00a0Childe Harold\u2019s Pilgrimage<\/em>), but\u00a0<\/em>for many years, he does not seem to have thought that the Greeks would actually rise up and claim their freedom. It was his friend, the poet Percy Shelley, who taught him a more dynamic form of pro-Greek political activism. Shelley\u2019s radicalism and idealism galvanised Byron and inspired him to his last great venture, in 1823: the adventure that ended with Byron\u2019s death at Mesolongi on 19 April 1824 and the release of a great wave of philhellenic sentiment across Europe and the United States.<\/p>\n

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Byron in Greece, by Vryzakis<\/p><\/div>\n

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Byron was a liberal and his contribution to the Greek struggle was motivated by liberal ideals. But at heart Philhellenism is not a political ideology, though it has a political dimension. The history of British engagement with Greece in the past two centuries shows that passionate British Philhellenes have included liberals, conservatives, socialists and the apolitical. It would also be wrong to think that Philhellenism, though it has important historical associations and deep historical roots, belongs exclusively to the past. I think that the youthful Byron shows us what Philhellenism is. It is quite simply a transformative love affair. The millions of my compatriots who go to Greece every year are as susceptible to falling in love with Greece as Byron was in 1809. Whether or not that first spark of love develops into something more lasting and significant depends on many factors, not least personal investment of time, willingness to learn the language, to acquire a knowledge of and a share in the culture. For those of us who come to Greece and truly fall in love with her, this love affair shapes our lives: it guides our present and moulds the future and soon becomes a treasured, indispensable part of our personal past.<\/p>\n

So on this day, which marks the 200th<\/sup>\u00a0anniversary of the launch of the struggle for Greek freedom, I am thinking not only of the heroes of the struggle – Makrygiannis, Kolokotronis, Karaiskakis, Bouboulina, Miaoulis, Mavrocordatos, Capodistrias, Byron, Hastings, Church – and of the ordinary Greeks who fought and endured, but also of today\u2019s Greeks: my many Greek friends and acquaintances, the Greeks I meet in London, those greater numbers of Greeks I have yet to meet in their homeland: Athens, Thessaloniki, and elsewhere. I say to all of you: This day is your day; it goes without saying that after 200 years of sustaining liberty, what your ancestors achieved is now your achievement. However heavy the burden of the past sometimes seems to be, you are worthy of it and you carry it well. Those of us who love Greece share in your joy and rejoice in your glorious freedom. I send you my warmest congratulations and my love.<\/p>\n

Long live Greece! Long live Greek freedom!
\nJohn
\nFeast of the Annunciation, 2021<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Lord Byron,\u00a0Childe Harold<\/em><\/strong>\u2019<\/em><\/strong>s Pilgrimage<\/em><\/strong>, Canto II.88<\/strong><\/p>\n

Where\u2019er we tread \u2018tis haunted, holy ground;<\/em>
\nNo earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould,<\/em>
\nBut one vast realm of wonder spreads around,<\/em>
\nAnd all the Muse\u2019s tales seem truly old,<\/em>
\nTill the sense aches with gazing to behold<\/em>
\nThe scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon:<\/em>
\nEach hill and dale, each deepening glen and wold<\/em>
\nDefies the power which crush\u2019d thy temples gone:<\/em>
\nAge shakes Athena\u2019s tower, but spares gray Marathon.<\/em><\/p>\n

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\"\"

Nestor’s Palace, Summer 2016<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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